The one on the left is known as Merlin’s Cave. Near the remains of Richard of Cornwall’s 13th-century castle are two grottoes. Its fragmentary walls mark the lair where Richard, the 13th-century Earl of Cornwall and the brother of King Henry III, is said to have gathered with his followers to feast on mutton and ale and pay homage to a monarch who may never have existed: King Arthur. Win Scutt, a burly, amiable archaeologist from nearby Plymouth, opens a gate and leads me down a path to the ruins of a medieval castle. Far below this cantilevered span, waves crash against the cliffs and swirl inside a grotto known as Merlin’s Cave. A cold, wind-driven rain soaks through my parka as I walk across a narrow foot-bridge that links the Cornwall mainland in southwest England to a rocky promontory overlooking the Bristol Channel.
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